At The Hill, Michelin-star chef is showing his lighter side when using butter, cream

REALLY SPECIAL: Even though I went for the $29 fixed-price dinner, I couldn't resist starting with this Scallop Sashimi special at The Hill in Closter ($14) -- buttery slices of raw sea scallops bathed in cantaloupe juice and served with crunchy pine nuts, diced melon and chilis. I ate each slice from a soup spoon for a sweet, salty and spicy sensation all at once.

$29 MENU: My entree from the fixed-price First On The Scene Menu last Thursday was Alaskan Cod A La Plancha with broccolini and cherry tomatoes. The fish was moist and flaked beautifully, below.

DELICIOUS: As a pescatarian who is watching his cholesterol, I welcome dishes that are prepared without butter and cream. On my first visit to The Hill in February, I loved my entree of Mahi-Mahi swimming in a Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette.

"I believe you can start with great ingredients and coax their natural flavor to the forefront without covering it up with butter or cream."

-- Ben Pollinger, chef/owner of The Hill

CITRUS VINAIGRETTE: Grilled Calamari was my appetizer last Thursday, served over sauteed pea shoots, sugar snaps and chilis in a citrus vinaigrette, above and below.

NO NEED FOR BUTTER OR CREAM: The fat, tender squid rings, swimming in the oily vinaigrette, were beautifully charred.

"My cooking style was very much affected by the year I spent cooking in Monaco for Alain Ducasse at Le Louis XV. By its nature, the cuisine of the Riviera is light, full of fresh vegetable cookery and more reliant on olive oil than on butter or cream."

-- Chef Ben Pollinger

FRESH BERRIES WITH CANDIED KUMQUAT: I asked Ann, my server, for fresh fruit instead of the desserts -- ice cream and sorbet or maple panna cotta -- that were included in the First On The Scene Menu for $29, including a glass of white or red wine, but excluding tax and tip. I'm not a dessert person.

STUFFED: My meal included addictive sea-salt focaccia with extra-virgin olive oil.

COMPlIMENTARY: I received this Salmon Ceviche as a gift from the kitchen -- another reason I begged for fresh fruit for dessert. The salmon, swimming in passion fruit juice, was served with crunchy green mango and chilis ($15).

"I actually don't use any cream in my clam chowder. I do use milk. Then, [pureed] potato gives the chowder body and creaminess without the need for cream."

-- Chef Ben Pollinger

ANNIVERSARY: The Hill celebrates its first anniversary in June. Website: Seafood, steak and game with light, bright global flavors

FIRST ON THE SCENE: The 3-course, $29 menu is available on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from 5 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., and on Sundays from 4 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.

FINE DINING: Last Thursday's specials menu at The Hill.

Read: A great Bergen County dining deal

-- VICTOR E. SASSON